Along the Spanish Coast, French border to Llanes


So with three on board we head West, the Spanish border town of Hondaribia is a pleasant place with a nice walled old area on top of a hill, Marina is good too.

Eileen on the wheel, hot, damned hot and no wind - I suppose having no wind is ok if it is directly on the nose... (gentlemen don't Beat to windward...)
The town of San Sebastian beckons, a big bay protected by an island (on the right).
In we go
I don't know what we are smiling about - 5 minutes later the first attempt at picking up a buoy results in our beautiful stainless swedish mooring hook going overboard - I tied a bowline, well actually I doubt I did tie a bowline... oops
I could either snorkel or use scuba gear - I opt for scuba gear. My assistant here is one of the best qualified diving instructors there is (BSAC National Instructor), and I am a 4 star diver, but it is hard because it is sooo hot.


Found it, in 30 feet of water, 10 feet vis and about 20 feet from the mooring bouy
The ladies swim
Our string operated slicer can slice pineapples suitable for Pina Colada ! most excellent

Oh yes
We see large rowing boats - there is a championship coming up and we see these at several places along the North Spanish coast, of particular interest to Shirley and I as we started rowing 4 man/person skiffs back home - Strangford.

Sunset in the gap
We are trying to get good value out of the "free" water taxis - available 24 hours a day! but only free in that the 38 Euro we were charged to tie to a mooring bouy entitles us to infinite taxi rides
There is a marina.... but this isn't it, it is actually a second basin to the right of this one. Turning a 46 foot yacht in this one would be interesting...
Nice town and nice beach, lots of marine activity, paddle boarding, canoeing, swiming, serious swiming, sailing, etc., a water lovers paradise.

A cuddly toy... ???
Thar she blows
next day the Sun goes away and lurky dismal clouds appear, the entire coast seems prone to these moist mists - there are massive mountains just inland (Pico de Europe) I guess the mists are a feature to be lived with.
We do get some sun, the further out we go
Sometimes the clouds meet the sea
Then we drop into a small town/harbour called Lequeitio - a dredged fish dock has some pontoons and lots of harbour wall, we fill in the forms for the harbourmaster, the berth is free with no facilities - unless a rusty ladder is a facility, I suppose if we didn't have one we would want one... nice rubberised timbers too. (hmm, I know what I mean...)
In the "marina" part there are very few pontoons, we wonder how to get to the boats, watch the video above to find out!
And more rowing boats, amazonian women. I like the steering oar

More like the strangford skiff (though the one above has side by side oarspeople

These are a different design - older

Pull together lads
Preparing the fish

Next day we are off, this time in sunshine for a while, and still no wind (from the wrong direction)
I am starting to go off lighthouses, too many of them


An interesting place for a church!
And then into Bilbao, my navigational data contradicts itself, there apparently is a sunken breakwater to the right of this, depths unknown and saying "probably ok to go over" does not fill one with confidence, we go the long way around. Would be interesting in North gales...
Lots of beautiful houses
old and new (buildings)
That's what we are looking for - the guggenheim
And having found it, we deserve an ice cream while a nice doggy looks on
The building is superb, and worth a look, a really interesting curvy interior too. The exhibits could be better but there is enough to keep us engrossed for an hour or two.
The singing coming from these copper kettles was unearthly
Touristed out, we imbibe
There are other scultures outside, the sclupture is the big spider thing
And off we go

The clouds are having a get together
Found another one - they have tour boats out to this one



into the inlet that is Santander - where the bank comes from. We anchor just in from the mouth, in 4m of water off a beach, among the anchored pedalos, just South of a banana.
swims are good, though the current is strong, and this is not springs!
busy port upriver apparently


There is that damned mist again
it clears as we enter our next stop, this one of particular sentimental value to the three of us. Shirley, Eileen and me spent a month diving on the North and Northwest coasts of Spain just after we graduated - 8 of us, the student Union minibus loaded up with camping and diving gear, a 7 cubic foot per minute compressor and a towing a rib drove here from Belfast. We spent a happy week here - San Vicente de la Barquero

We tie up between two fishing boats, it is Saturday and very quiet on the fishing quay - the marina has no masts in it and is full of local boats, there might just be room to squeeze a yacht or two. There is also bouys upriver right at the bridge but the current must be fierce there.
The happy trio, the other five were Alan Doyle, Sandra Maxwell, Jill Bustard, Ivor Pogue and Bernard Picton.
Oh damn, I forgot my suit

The rightgeous swimmers surely deserve pina coladas


The view from the bridge - the french yacht in the foreground is between two buoys, but the current has him dancing around and getting ashore is no picnic. Note the sandbanks!
Mind you the sandbanks require intense concentration at low water, I take comfort that if I run aground we won't go any deeper




Phew

Surfs up but still no wind
We head for an interesting wee place called Llanes, reports differ on whether it is good or not. We liked it - once we were in. Then entrance looks very tight. The concrete block graffiti is an art "installation" that is world famous in Llanes (and few other places) we all agree we don't like it. but the town is a wee gem actually and we like it and the surrounding walks.

The "marina" has a sill best taken at half tide so we go into the right (hidden entrance) to the fish dock and tie up alongside a fishing boat for a couple of hours.




The "marina" suits small boats - apart from the nice long visitor pontoon just inside the gates, we tie up, a wee man visits, I fill in a form and hand over 20 Euro. The electric and water work, the local tourist office has great toilets and great Wifi! (available 24 hours because when it shuts you can sit on the window sill outside and still use it! - the Wifi, not the toilet



I am holding a beautiful bun that Shirley and I devour later.
Looking forward to the bun




That is the vistitor pontoon, this is high season so I suspect not many make the effort to come in. The fishing boats all clear out early in the morning so tying up in the fishdock would be ok but maybe noisy.



La Rochelle to Spain

With the newly published schedule of firing off the french coast showing activity from the coast outwards for the entire week it becomes fairly urgent to traverse the range before the weekend is out. We wait for the wind to reduce on the Saturday afternoon and finally get away from La Rochelle at 4pm Saturday, it is 180 miles to Spain. Leaving the Marina berth is difficult and we have the invaluable help of Ian and Francis from Raptor - a royal ulster boat that is two boats up from us! (Ian and Francis also live about 2 miles from us so it is a small world!)

We attach a warp to Shadowmere's stern cleat and the other end goes to the end of a pontoon two boats up wind of us. Ian holds the bow rope, a few feet from the bow and walks down the pontoon, this allows me to reverse and guarantees that the stern ends up facing the wind as it pivots on the long stern rope. With the boat nearly aligned with the channel we cast off, Francis recovers the long rope, Ian coils it and throws it on board as we pass the hammerhead, phew.

I always say the first and last 10 feet of any passage are the worrying bits!


Leaving the marina
Being overtaken by a faster boat


With a 4 pm departure, we motor into the wind and large swell for 3 hours and then turn left for Spain. Sails up for the next 30 hours and some nice sailing as winds and swell die.
Sausage casserole going into Mr D (the slow cooker) - the new galley works well.
Missed him
Oh, there he is, can you see him? a big dolphin...


Mr D delivers once again
Sunrise over the Bay of Biscay


We arrive in Hondarribia on the Spanish border at 1am, next day Eileen joins us and we do the town






And the journey continues with my beautiful crew...

La Rochelle adventures

With the weather being so crap - 40 knot gusts and inches of rain - or centimetres as they say here. I have been discovering my feminine side Doros (private joke).

I have moved from silver fox to silverback, (is this a male Rachel?)

Having spent a few days on my own, wiring up the remaining solar cells, making outboard brackets, fitting the recently serviced outboard to the pushpit, fender boards etc., I look forward to Shirley arriving.  I hire a car for three days and go and pick her up on Wednesday 28th. We drive into Bordeaux to visit the Cite de Vin - a modern monstrocity housing a museum dedicated to ...you've guessed! (but you do get a free tasting at the end, at the very top in the bit which looks unfinished but is!)

 Martian (my new sunnies!!) meets some architects drunken inspiration?

Studying the bottles  ..everyone tells a story


Interesting iPads...honest! Bluetooth in english


Virtual ship carrying Bacchus & his wine


Georgian wine Rachel made the traditional way (no feet involved)  delish

The degustations..mais oui!


& of course there has to be a marina in the picture!!

Shirley's new home  Chateau de la Roche Courbon


a major restoration a la Castle Ward ...not!


..my new gardens...


& a wee project for Ian




..how do they get them that shape?


... one solitary duck egg all on its lonesome ownsome
 


now where did I leave my head



Let the games begin!  He did win but he didn't get it all his own way I'm happy to say!

African death mask beetles  (Jens??)

Surveying Ian's new pied a terre nearby (remember the silverback!)


...perfectly at home in his cave (go in at least 20 metres)


and here we have yet another lock gate in yet another marina (Rochefort)


..must we go down to the water again!? (waiting pontoons)

Hope you enjoyed our holiday pics(yawn) Hoping to get back on the water tomorrow, winds are declining, we need to leave Saturday evening by the latest to avoid the French shooting us on their firing range, it starts up at 8:00 am Monday and we have 160 miles to cover!

Ian and Shirley McCrum